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pain free climbing
Bouldering, climbing, and mountaineering for breakdowns, chronic pain, and maintenance, and bodywork clinic
What does "climb on your back" mean?
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How to use your body without hurting your shoulder
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Climbing considering the movement of the scapula
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Climb using inner muscles
inner muscle
Many "bedridden" climbers
Wasteful and injured!
a strong climberlooks bigger when you climb
Good climbers and strong climbers look bigger when they start climbing. It's not just about atmosphere.
Good climbers/strong climbers use their backs to climb, so when they start climbing, their shoulder blades move to the sides.
In addition, the inner muscles of the back and shoulders, including the infraspinatus muscles, develop and move,The area of the back actually expands, and the rear figure becomes really largeIt is.
“When you climb your back grows.” It can be said that climbers use the inner muscles of their backs and shoulders well.
If you use the inner muscles of your back and shoulders well, your shoulders will move more, so for example...
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reach farther
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can attract deeper
…these are the real benefits.
Improve inner muscleIf you use
3D shoulder movement
Also, if you use your inner muscles well, your back and shoulders willvertical directionnot only,left-right directionorforward and backwardIncluding, you will be able to "move in three dimensions". That way, you can keep your center of gravity in a good position even during tough moves with restricted limb positions.
for example…,
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When you are about to be peeled off the wall in a task with volume or haribote, the movement of your back draws your center of gravity toward the wall.
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In the crack task, move the center of gravity and the lower body by moving the back while keeping the arm fixed without changing the angle of the forearm (so that the hand jam does not come off).
… you will be able to move like that.
even with dynamic moves
Supple movement that "does not peel off"
Also, dynamic moves often shake and strip the body. Even at such times, climbers who can move their shoulders and back three-dimensionally can absorb the impact of the shaking.
Even with a move that cuts your leg the moment you hold it, the flexible movement of your shoulders and back absorbs the impact, and you can bring it to a stable posture without being peeled off.
…with skillful use of the inner muscles of the shoulders and back, these various movements are possible and can be used to deal with worse holds and difficult moves.
If you climb on your back...
More freedom of hands and arms = fewer failures
But the benefits don't stop there.
What does it mean to be able to use the shoulders to change the center of gravity and to be able to stabilize larger movements? ?
…That means that the degree of freedom of the hands and arms increases as a result.
in short…,
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Reduces strain on fingertips, wrists and elbows
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Use your back → You can avoid unreasonable movement of the shoulder joint
… and it also leads to “break prevention” such as fingers, wrists, elbows, upper arms, shoulders, hips, etc.
Roughly speaking, inner muscles are “deep muscles that are not on the surface”, but in the case of the shoulders and back, they also include those that partially appear on the surface. However, some, such as the subscapularis, lie behind the scapula and are nearly invisible.
Inner muscle movement in everyday life
seldom aware
The inner muscles of the shoulders and back are originally “muscles to prevent dislocation” of the shoulder joint.
The shoulder joint has a structure that is easy to dislocate in order to secure a large range of motion.vinegar. Therefore, it is difficult to support with ligaments alone. Therefore, the inner muscle covers the range that cannot be supported by the ligaments.
In our daily life, we are not conscious of the movement of these inner muscles."Let's raise the arm with force so as not to dislocate it."I don't think there are many people who think about it on a daily basis. They are moving on their own (naturally).
however,
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daily desk work
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Repetition of the same moves or tasks
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Poor posture habit
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Habits of looking at smartphones for long periods of time
When you spend more time in the same posture for a long time, your inner muscles are forced to maintain the same position for a long time.
When the inner muscle becomes hard
more failures
While maintaining the same position, the inner muscles are still and working hard. Then, the inner muscle becomes harder and harder.
If the inner muscles of the shoulders and back become stiff, even if you try to make the three-dimensional movements mentioned above, you will only be able to make small movements. Then...
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Increased strain on fingertips, wrists and elbows
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Unable to avoid excessive movement of the shoulder joint
... and so on, the situation is the opposite.
As a result, not only shoulder injuries, but also fingers, wrists, elbows, upper arms, and lower back injuries are more likely to occur.
Many people's inner muscles are "bedridden". As I wrote earlier, inner muscles are rarely used consciously.
In other words, many climbers use only the outer muscles, and the inner muscles are not "trained", but "not used".
should do"training"not
"Practice to move"
Speaking of inner muscle, "training"I tend to think that, but if I do it, I will fail.
If you suddenly train the "bedridden muscles", you will either break down or develop a bad habit of movement.
The first thing you should do is..."Practice to move inner muscle"…is.
Specifically, there are various methods, but as an easy-to-understand method for climbers,"Shoulder Suspension"there is.
*The "shoulder pull-ups" below are for those who can do normal pull-ups. For those who cannot do pull-ups, if you force yourself to do them, you may damage your muscles. Please be careful.
Just by moving your shoulders and back, you can raise your body by a few centimeters.
Basic movement "shoulder pull-up"
"Shoulder pull-ups" can be done with horizontal bars or hangboards (usually gabbers are OK).hanging from
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Extend your arms and relax your shoulders, hanging at the fingertips
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Don't bend your arms and don't strain your arms...
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…Pull up your body with the strength of your shoulders and sides
First of all, hang down with the rest of your fingers relaxed. It's even better if you're conscious of the weakness of your waist, stomach, and legs.
Actually, it is in a hanging state (with the arm raised), but let's imagine tightening the armpit so that the shoulder blade is in the state shown in the figure.
… is the action.
Even if you do not bend your arm (elbow), you can raise your body a few centimeters just by moving your shoulder and armpit.shouldis.Repeat this several times without rushing.
This is a "moving practice" before training, so please be aware of the following points rather than speed and size of movement.
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Do not apply force to arms and elbows other than fingertips
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Don't push yourself, move slowly
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Weak legs, waist and abdomen
This is the basic movement that uses the back.
This "shoulder pull-up" is one of the exercises for climbing on the back, but in addition to this,
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With just a twist of the upper body,make a reach
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Pull your upper body forward just by moving your back
… and so on.
Skillful climbers who are less likely to get injured or have endurance or tenacious climbers have different "back movement = shoulder blade movement". "Climb on your back" instead of your arms. This alone will change the grade.
お読みいただきありがとうございました！
ボルダリングの整体院では
いろいろな解決策の一つとして
施術やレッスンやもご用意しています
ご興味ある方はいつでもご相談ください！
肩甲骨がちゃんと動くようにする「施術」
＋
肩甲骨の正しい動きを身につける「レッスン」
正しい動きを身に着けるには、まず背中の筋肉群が、リラックスし、ほぐれていなければなりません。
背中の筋肉群のハリやコリは、上達を妨げる原因になるだけではありません。指・手首・肘・肩など…、筋膜により、背中と直接つながっている部位の、故障の原因にもなります。
ボルダリングの整体院の「施術」では…
→ 腕〜肩〜背中 … 動き・可動域をチェック
→ 動作を妨げる「筋肉・筋膜」の洗い出し
→ インナー＆アウターマッスルの「コリ・ハリ」をリリース
→ 肩全体が協調・ムダなく正しく動くように
…結果として
→ 指・手首・肘・肩など … 故障が減る
→ 無駄なリキミが減り、持久力アップ
→ 背中の大きな動きができるように … リーチが延びる
背中を上手に使えるようにコンディショニング
故障を防ぎながらグレードUP
ボルダリングの整体院で
パフォーマンスアップの「定期メンテナンス」
ぜひお勧めします！
「肩を傷めない登り方」
「背中で登る」レッスン
At the bouldering manipulative clinic,learn the correct movements,
"Private lessons" are also held from time to time.
In the lesson "How to climb without hurting your shoulders, climb on your back"
→ Inner muscles become able to move
→ Inner muscles become stronger
→ Better balance between inner and outer muscles
→ Be able to support the body with the whole shoulder
→ Fewer shoulder injuries
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The burden of the arm is shared with the back, and "failure of fingers, elbows and wrists" is reduced.
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You can save your physical strength and increase your endurance
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Extends "reach" as it moves with the shoulder
「背中を上手に使った登り」を身体で覚える
故障を防ぎながらグレードUP
ボルダリングの整体院の
「プライベートレッスン」お勧めします！
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